In this rare footage of Yves Saint Laurent, we are reminded of his greatness. A man given the reigns to one of the most prestigious houses in the world, at just 16. A man who not only changed the way we dressed, but changed the way we interpreted fashion. In the words of Dries Van Noten: “Every designer has taken so much of Saint Laurent. Saint Laurent is in everything we do.”
Yves Saint Laurent, 1962

There is something liberating about a designer with humour. More importantly a designer who doesn’t take himself too seriously.
This is what makes Peter Jensen, well, Peter Jensen. His collection this season was bright and alive, with sporadic touches of rockabilly style and suburban American housewife. The inspiration was a concoction of characters on the brink of insanity.
A prim and pretty housewife complete with pearls and décolletage is now unnerved. She begins wearing motocross jackets with her prissy strapless dresses. Her favourite long pink satin gown, once always worn with pearls is now irrelevant. So what’s a girl to do? Get it shortened to show more thigh, more cleavage and keep the pearls. Another stand-out piece was a stark white ruffled hoodie. Although it was quite “girlie”, make no mistake this collection was not designed for desperate housewives.

Overall the collection was consistent and completely wearable. Kudos to Jensen.

Opening the London Fashion Week season this year was Paul Costello was not a high point.
Paul Costelloe’s collection this season was not my absolute fave. But keeping in mind that I am by no means in his “target market” of mature women (read: older), I can comfortably say it was alright. This collection was designed for your fabulously rich grandma (or older aunt with a great bod) who lives in the Florida Keys and enjoys tan in a can. Her clothing choices boarder a thin line between eccentric and just plain tacky. The beginning of the collection was easy-going and light and filled with high paper-bag waist-hems (which I look amazing on a variety of body shapes) and gingham dresses. Then everything went south. As many of us know, metallics have indeed made a comeback and it was definitely a trendier move for Costelloe to toss them in the pot. However metallics + floral + paper-bag waists= too much. That mixed with the entire package of stark blond hair and over-tanned skin (think Charlize Theron’s orange tan fiasco a couple years ago) was a bit much. And understand that this was not a styling error, as many pieces were created with a combination of the aforementioned themes.

As we predicted (along with everyone else in the industry) Valentino will be resigning. The designer, whose label just celebrated its 45th anniversary, will depart with his business partner (Giancarlo Giammetti), after showing one more ready-to-wear and couture show. The 75 year-old designer recently gave the elite a roman holiday as guests enjoyed a 3 day celebration, while paying homage to the designer.

“My future will be filled with new interests and challenges. Some may be linked to fashion, as I have a strong desire to create and support institutions to promote the study of fashion design, and to preserve the history of the art of fashion. It will be a marvellous continuation of this amazing adventure that I had the privilege to have. Even as a young boy, my passion was to design, and I have been very lucky to be able to do what I have loved all my life.” (Vogue.co.uk)

And who will replace him, you ask?
Much is being said on this topic but we put our money on Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. They’re talented, young and this would make perfect sense as to why the Valentino Fashion Group just purchased nearly half of the duo’s business. Though based on skill alone and design style, Stefano Pilati would also be a good contender. So we take that back… We put our money on Pilati.

A video from Valentino’s Spring 2007 Haute Couture Show…

Yes this is the end of an enjoyable era.

A lot is going on in this crazy old world. But here are some things we at iPapier have been quite stoked about:

Preen’s capsule collection for TopShop.
Full Story

Visionaire aka V magazine’s October issue guest-edited by Marc Jacobs…
Full Story

Karl Lagerfeld showing Chanel’s pre-autumn/winter collection in LONDON this season.
Full Story

Seeing more men dress with color this coming season and we don’t mean only browns and navy blues.
Full Story

CHEERS!

With the recent addition of Keira Knightley to the Chanel family–namely this seasons Coco Mademoiselle Fragrance Campaign– it’s no surprise that the actress has also been selected to play the designer, in the up and coming biopic. Gabrielle Chanel has never been portrayed on screen but Katharine Hepburn did play her in the Broadway musical Coco in 1970. Many thought that front-runner and Amélie movie star Audrey Tautou, was bound for landing the role (even IMDB still has her name as the lead). The movie is set to be directed by French director, Anne Fontaine.

****
For those who might not know, Knightley is also the face of the new Coco Madamoiselle fragrance campaign officially debuting this September. Recently, the actress admitted that her body was “enhanced” to have more curve for the ads. Tell us something we don’t know dear. But the most exciting part is that the commercials (i.e. mini movies) will be directed by Joe Wright, who also made his directing debut in “Pride & Prejudice” and directed the more recent “Atonement”. Catherine Deneuve, Estella Warren and Nicole Kidman are just a taste of the many starlets who have been the face Chanel fragrances.
What’s your favorite Chanel Commericial?

Vanessa Paradis?

Estella Warren

Nicole Kidman

Carole Bouquet

Myspace, Myspace, Myspace. One more time: Myspace. It seems the aforementioned site is the guilty pleasure of every entertainment industry under the sun. So it’s no surprise the Fashion Industry has crossed-over. Enter: Myspace.com/Fashion This new channel of myspace features videos to promote both unknown and established designers, forums for members and an assortment of “fashion videos” to browse through. Technically the site launched in January of this year, but let’s just say the launch barely raised an eyebrow…let alone enough interested parties to conjure popularity. The new site is much better and we’ll be checking it out in addition to other favourites (Iqons, Pressbook, etc.) For more info check out Business Week.com. Has anyone checked it out yet? What do you think?

It seems that “the new and improved” Naomi Campbell is also seeking new business ventures. Recently she was interviewed by journalists in Kenya and confessed that “Black models are being sidelined by major modeling agencies…” Of course this comment might seem worthy of
being tossed aside, as it’s been a known problem for years, however the mobile phone diva went on to state that she has considered opening her own modeling agency in Kenya. Doing so would help balance things out according to her. Whether or not this will actually happen, who knows? Although we applaud the efforts, isn’t this kind of like blaming the messengers? Afterall it’s not the agencies who ask for specific “types”, it’s the clients. Maybe she should jump on the bandwagon with other celebs and become her own brand and use that as a vehicle for change? Okay I’m rambling…But I bet she’d make it big if she came out with her own mobile phone.
For more check out the The Guardian.

Image provided by www.wenn.com

Could you imagine a world full of super child-models? I mean yes, Marc Jacobs does have Dakota Fanning (and we looooove her) and yes many models start out at pre-pubescent ages, but what if children were the next big thing? Well it seems that way as fashion’s youth obsession has taken it a step further as Dubai’s Kids Fashion Week hits the industry’s weak spot. The goal of the event is to showcase trends in the children’s wear industry and create buzz for designers using some of the most popular child models. Brands such as Marks & Spencer, Okaidi, Pumpkin Patch and United Colors of Benetton are just a small portion of the participating brands. And it seems that the event (which is in it’s fifth run) is finally hitting it’s stride. It’s no Paris fashion week, but it is a nice prelude before the fashion week seasons begins. Although there are a variety of tradeshows and other types of events situated to showcase children’s wear, this is the first to feature it on such a grand scale and as a 7 day event. The event is happening now and will continue until August 16th.

The silver-haired sartorialist, Karl Lagerfeld, is debuting a film this autumn titled Lagerfeld Confidentiel. The film offers an introspective view into the life and times of the icon. With over 150 hours of footage, the film is more than a vessel for entertainment, it is an intimate portrait. Lagerfeld is by todays tabloid-addicted celebri-whore standards, a fashion phenomena. Why? Because this man has achieved iconic status (while still living) and is remains to have an obscure past that was only recently uncovered in last years A Beautiful Fall by Alicia Drake (great read by the way). Though, expect no less than any other “fashion life” documentary. It’s replete with glamour, narcissistic neurosis and sky-high luxury. We’d have it no other way.
Lagerfeld Confidentiel debuts in the UK in October.